HOW TO MORDANT SILK OR OTHER PROTEIN FIBRES

Standard Mordant Recipe

  1. Weigh the fibre dry, then scour.

  2. Measure alum at 15% WOF

  3. OPTIONAL Measure cream of tartar at 6% WOF (see cream of tartar in the additive section above).

  4. Dissolve the alum (and the optional cream of tartar) in very hot water in a non-reactive container.

  5. Add the dissolved chemicals to the dye kettle with enough warm water 45º C (110º F) to cover the fibre when it is added - usually a 30:1 ration of water to fibre. Stir well.

  6. Add the scoured, wet fibre. Over 30-45 minutes bring the temperature up to 90º C (195ºF) Just under simmer for wool and 85ºC (185ºF) for silk. Rotate the yarn or fabric frequently so the alum is evenly distributed. Hold for one hour, gently turning the fibre regularly.

  7. Let cool in the bath for 20 minutes.

  8. Remove the fibre from the mordant bath. Rinse well in cool water and allow to hang evenly over a non-reactive rod (stainless steel, plastic) until it stops dripping. Store the yarn or cloth in a damp white cloth for 24-48 hours. Keep it damp during this entire period.

  9. Once completely dry, mordanted yarns and fabrics may be stored indefinitely.