Alkanet

Alkanna tinctoria

Dyer’s alkanet is a very attractive purple colourant that is found in the roots of plants belonging to the borage family. It grows uncultivated throughout central Europe and extends to central Asia and North Africa. The extracted pigment is often used in cosmetics, soaps and pigments. The violet colourant from alkanet is not soluble in water. Before a dyebath is made the alkanet root must be soaked in a solution of alcohol and hot water – colourless rubbing alcohol or methylated spirits can be used (some dyers who do not like the smell of either of these solvents use vodka!). The colours produced on mordanted fabric and yarns are shades of grey, lavender and purple. The colours achieved are beautiful but have moderate light fastness.

See the MAIWA GUIDE TO NATURAL DYES

Mordanting: Use alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibres. For cellulose, first mordant with tannin at 8% WOF, then either 1) use alum at 15% with soda ash at 2% or 2) use aluminum acetate at 8%. 

Dyeing: use dried alkanet at 75-100% WOF for a medium to dark depth of shade. First, soak the alkanet in alcohol (or methylated spirits) for several days to extract the colour. When the liquid has developed a strong colour, add enough water for the fibres to move freely in the solution. Add the mordanted fibres and gently heat this dyebath - no higher than 60ºC (140ºF) - until all the colour has been taken up. 

Options: Adding iron to the dyebath at 2% WOF creates a range of greys and grey-violets.

Below: Alkanet 100% WOF