Henna
Lawsonia inermis
Henna leaves are harvested from the shrub Lawsonia inermis. The dye comes from leaves that are dried and ground into a powder. Henna produces a brown colour tending toward a red-orange on protein fibres. Henna bonds well with protein, hence it is used to dye skin (mendhi), hair, fingernails, leather, silk and wool. On cellulose fibres henna yields light yellow greens.
See the MAIWA GUIDE TO NATURAL DYES
Mordanting: Use alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibres. For cellulose, first mordant with tannin at 8% WOF, then either 1) use alum at 15% with soda ash at 2% or 2) use aluminum acetate at 8%.
Dyeing: When using ground henna at 20-50% WOF on mordanted fibres, rich browns are achieved on protein fibres and “latte” like colours to soft greens on cellulose fibres. There is no need to make an extract, just add the powder directly to the dyebath. Simmer the fibres in the dyebath until the desired colour is obtained – approximately 1-2 hours.
Options: Iron at 2-4% can slightly enrich the brown colour. Altering the pH of the henna dyebath does not alter the colour.
Note: Spent henna pulp may be used as a reducing agent for an indigo vat (see our indigo instructions).
Below: Henna 20% WOF
