Chamomile

Anthemis tinctoria

Dyer's Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria is part of the daisy family. It grows throughout North America, Europe and throughout the Himalaya region. It is often used in Turkish carpets for warm, strong yellows and is mixed with madder for tangerine colours. Chamomile is best on protein fibres with an alum mordant.

See the MAIWA GUIDE TO NATURAL DYES

Mordanting: Use alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibres. For cellulose, first mordant with tannin at 8% WOF, then either 1) use alum at 15% with soda ash at 2% or 2) use aluminum acetate at 8%. 

Dyeing: use dried chamomile at 50-100% WOF for medium to strong warm yellows. First soak the chamomile in hot water for an hour. Add fibre and slowly bring the temperature up to about 80ºC (180ºF). Hold at temperature for about an hour.

Options: Adding madder to the dyebath gives some of the most beautiful tangerine colours.

Below: Chamomile 50% WOF