Weld
Reseda Luteola
Weld – Reseda Luteola is also known as Dyers Weld, Dyers Rocket, and Dyers Mignonette. It produces an excellent light and washfast yellow and is a strong clear yellow to combine with indigo for emerald and leaf greens. Traditionally cultivated throughout Europe as a yellow dyeplant it still flourishes on embankments or beside railways and roads. Weld gives strong intense yellows which are clear and bright.
See the MAIWA GUIDE TO NATURAL DYES
Mordanting: Use alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibres. For cellulose, first mordant with tannin at 8% WOF, then either 1) use alum at 15% with soda ash at 2% or 2) use aluminum acetate at 8%.
Dyeing with the extract: Use at 4-6% WOF for a medium depth of shade.
Dyeing with the plant matter: Use at 20-30% WOF for a medium depth of shade. Pour boiling water over the plant material and allow to stand overnight. Add more water and bring the pot to a simmer but not more than 160 F as too high a temperature will dull the yellow. Strain off the dye liquor into the dyebath. The plant material can be reused two or three times for light shades. Add the fibre to the dyebath and simmer below 160 F for about one hour.
Weld develops best in slightly hard water. Adding finely ground chalk (or a Tum’s tablet – 1 to each 4 litres of water) brightens the weld colour, especially if there is no lime in the local water.
Options: The strength of weld makes it a good choice for overdyeing with indigo to obtain teals and greens.
Below Weld 6% WOF
Below: Weld 6% WOF and Eastern Brazilwood 5% WOF
Below: Weld 6% WOF and Iron 2% WOF
