Kakishibu Persimmon Dye
A TANNIN-RICH DYE EXTRACT OF THE JAPANESE PERSIMMON FRUIT
Kakishibu has a rich cultural heritage that dates back centuries in ancient Japan. This natural dye, derived from fermented unripe persimmon fruit, holds a special place in Japanese traditional crafts of textiles, paper and woodwork. Renowned for its rich amber colour, durability, and eco-friendly properties, kakishibu continues to captivate artisans.
The dyeing process involves first extracting tannins from the unripe fruit of the kaki (persimmon) tree, specifically the astringent variety known as ‘shibu’. The fruits are collected, peeled, and left to ferment in water for several months to several years. The process of fermentation allows for the release of tannic acid, which gives kakishibu its distinct characteristics.
Kakishibu on textiles has been used for centuries. The dye can be applied through various techniques, including direct application, stencil dyeing, and immersion dyeing. The result is not only a stunning colour but imbues natural fibres with enhanced durability, water repellency, and resistance to insects.
Kakishibu is used extensively in traditional Japanese fine woodworking. Wood artisans use the dye to protect and beautify a variety of wooden objects such as furniture, flooring, and tools. The tannins in kakishibu act as a natural wood preservative and offer protection against insects, fungi, and moisture. The dye enhances the natural beauty of wood by deepening its colour and creating a rich, aged, weathered appearance.
Unopened kakishibu can last for many years. Once opened, it is best to remove as much air in the container as possible, cap tightly and store in a cool dark place.
Kakishibu becomes darker with time as it is exposed to sunlight.
Kakishibu does not require a mordant.
It is important to avoid contact with iron metals while the kakishibu is wet as it will turn black. However, an after bath of a weak iron (2% WOF) will turn the kakishibu rich amber colour to stunning browns and greys - see below for instructions.
The scent of kakishibu can be quite strong – especially on thick fabric. This will disappear after the final washing and drying.
Dyeing:
1. Scour your fabric to remove any starch or dirt.
2. Soak cloth in warm water for 30 minutes before dyeing.
3. Dilute the kakishibu with water – we like a ratio of 1:2 for direct application. 1:3 or 1:4 for immersion depending on the size of your cloth.
4. Kakishibu can be applied to cloth directly with a brush or by immersing the cloth in a kakishibu bath. We like to work the kakishibu solution into the cloth by massaging it for a minute or two before squeezing out. Kakishibu can be combined with shaped resist techniques.
5. Once the cloth dries, this processes of painting or immersing can be repeated to obtain deeper colours.
Note: To get the deepest and richest colour from your kakishibu, it is best to expose the cloth in the sun, rotating the cloth every hour or so to get even sun exposure. Depending on the strength of the sun - you will need to expose the cloth for more or less time. On a warm summer day this can be achieved in a few hours. Otherwise it is best to give it a few days.
6. The red-brown colour of kakishibu can be shifted with an alkaline solution in several ways. One is to dissolve 5g (1 tsp) of soda ash into 250 ml (1 cup) of warm water. Wearing rubber gloves, wet out the kakishibu dyed cloth and immerse in this mixture. The colour will shift quickly to rich mahoganies. Remove after 1-2 minutes and rinse.
7. Another shift can be done with iron (ferrous sulphate). We recommend dissolving 2-4% WOF ferrous sulphate into warm water. Wearing rubber gloves, wet out the kakishibu dyed cloth and immerse in this mixture. The colour will shift quickly to rich warm brown/blacks. Remove after 2-4 minutes and rinse. An iron shift on kakishibu that has been exposed to sun will shift to a deep olive green. An iron shift on kakishibu that has not been exposed to sun will shift to a slate grey.
8. After final application, the cloth should be washed in a mild detergent and hung to dry.
Note: If the texture of the cloth becomes crisp after the final dry, it will soften with warm water machine wash and warm dry.