Sumac
rhus coriaria
Sumac is a small tannin-rich tree which was used by many of North America’s indigenous peoples to obtain a variety of browns and blacks. D. Cardon relates a process from 1881 that included a sumac extraction, bloodroot and roasted ochres, to achieve a deep black on wool. Sumac is often used as an alternative to other tannins and its use in combination with iron will give a grey with a slightly pinkish nuance. Sumac can also be used on its own as a dye. No other tannin is needed. Use at 20% WOF.
See the MAIWA GUIDE TO NATURAL DYES
Mordanting for the light brown colour: Use alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibres and then, in a separate bath, use sumac at 20% WOF.
For cellulose fibres either 1) Just use sumac alone at 20% or 2) for a deeper colour, use a clear tannin (like oak gall) and then alum at 15% and soda ash at 2% and then a separate sumac dyebath at 20% WOF.
Below: Sumac 20% WOF
